Starred review from October 15, 2022
We seldom think about the origin and impact of the clothes we wear, but this well-researched book shows us why we should. Tonti is a consultant and journalist who has worked in many parts of the global fashion industry in Melbourne, Sydney, London, and Paris, and she has seen enough to understand the numerous negative environmental effects. She believes that the fashion supply chain is a significant contributor to greenhouse gas emissions, with polyester being a particular villain. Resource waste and soil degradation are also parts of the picture. A key issue is that the fast-fashion trend has led to people buying more clothes than they need, sometimes ludicrously more. "Various reports describe how members of Gen Z refuse to re-wear an outfit once they've posted a photo of themselves in it on social media--the terrifying amalgamation of free market and toxic psychological forces," writes the author. One solution is for consumers to choose clothes made from natural fibers that last longer. Individual pieces might be more expensive, but the long-term value is there. Not afraid to literally get her hands dirty, Tonti chronicles her travels around the world to find farms that are trying new methods of sustainable production. Even cotton, often seen as an environmental problem due to the amount of water it needs, can be grown sustainably with careful planning and in the right location. The author also highlights the useful work being done with cashmere, silk, and linen, and she explores the potential of hemp and new recycling systems. "For the imperiled fashion industry, regenerative agriculture presents an intriguing solution," she notes. Refreshingly, Tonti avoids the ideological, scolding tone often used by those concerned with sustainability issues. Even more, her love of fashion and good clothes shines through, injecting the narrative with an uplifting sense of optimism and purpose. Tonti's insightful book shines light into the darker corners of the fashion business and points to new ways forward.
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